What I can expect from Britain (part one)
I used to read more. The main thing I read, for quite some time now, are travel books.
And not particularly just guidebooks of places I’m going, or might be going, or one day hope to go. I just love travel writing. Particularly humorous travel writing, opinionated travel writing, travel writing mixed in with memoir and local history and observational comedy and … you get the idea.
This is for two main reasons (with subsections):
1) They’re just brilliant reads. They’re aspiration and inspiration and entertainment all in one. Because:
a) Reading well-written books about travels to places you have never been or do not know well is like travelling when you cannot afford to travel. It is mental travel.
b) Reading books about places you DO know well but in a different age is even better. Because it is ALSO mental travel, but it is mental time travel, and therefore super-extra-cool.
2) When I get to write books, these are the kind of books I want to write. I have no talent for fiction, not on a long-form basis - but this kind of thing I do. And it is what I wish to write.
Also, I like the fact that there seem to have been great swathes of time when travel writing was allowed to be the most vociferously opinionated kind of writing around. Perhaps it’s the natural thing about travelling somewhere where etiquette and everyday practice is different from your own, but people get so exercised about other people’s refusal to behave just like they do at home that their shocked disbelief fair bounces off the page in the most enjoyable fashion.
Mainly, I just love travelling. And I love writing. I would go as far as to say that I do one in order to save enough to do the other. And the day when I can do one in order to provide material for the other to earn enough to raise enough money for more of the first thing and then write about it (and earn money for that) seems like the best kind of circular argument I’ve ever heard.
Anyway.
I have decided to dip into not only my little modest stash of collected US travel books about what you can expect in Britain to build a very proper little guide to my trip. And, as a bonus, I also can also utilise the brilliant (and beautiful) open library and their amazing subject search, which frankly has kept me so busy reading things that this post is about three weeks late in coming.
I was starting this evening with a book by the name of “An American’s Guide to Britain”, published in 1977, and written by Robin W Winks. It’s a lovely book. It’s mainly filled with regional guides pointing out very specifically places in the UK that have a direct link to US history or famous native or naturalised American personages (which is interesting in itself, if you’re prepared to dig through a lot of mentions of birthplaces of the parents of poets you’ve never heard of).
But then, in the section titled ‘a pot pourri of general warnings’, you hit something pure gold, like:
Prostitution is no fun in Britain. Wait until you go to Hamburg or Munich.
This is, perhaps, realistic …. but unusual for a guidebook to mention, in my experience. But then, as advice, that’s about an inch away from:
Both the reception and content of British television is high. Watch it.
Which, frankly, isn’t that consistently true any more (but I’ll still take it). Then, the same page also contains the very sage and true advice:
“The British tend to respect food more than Americans do, and, unless your host and hostess do otherwise, you should not smoke between courses, although you may do so before coffee arrives. You naturally will ask permission to smoke a cigar. English ladies are not of the opinion that you show your virility by sticking a fat stogie in your face”
Darn tootin’. But then, this suggests that American women do. I mean, really?!? Does ANYONE?
I love this kind of thing, though. I literally cannot imagine someone lighting up at a dinner party in someone else’s house now, or in a restaurant, really. But particularly a dinner party at someone’s house. It’s just become unthinkable. Along with the very true:
“Are you cold? Wear a sweater. The British consider 65° an excellent indoor temperature, and regard 72° as stuffy. You will pay dearly if you try to close that gap: sweaters and warm socks are cheaper, and you can take them with you.”
This is still Fact. So true, actually, that I just checked the thermostat thingy on our wall, and it is, indeed, set to about 62°, in its delightfully inaccurate kind of way. Colder than that is too cold. If it’s warmer than that and you’re too cold, you know where the jumper drawer is. Also: there are blankets that can be used on any sofa in the house.
But then, on food, the hopefully no longer true:
“The British are a people of integrity. This also means they are inflexible where matters of propriety are involved. I once attempted to get a waitress to bring an order of ‘hamburger and egg’ with the egg left off, and she refused, since the menu did not list hamburger. The idea that I would pay the full price for half the dish shocked her so deeply, she never found the table again.”
Because frankly, ordering like Sally in When Harry Met The Aforementioned Lady I Just Said The Name Of By Mistake Ruining The Integrity Of This Sentence has become second nature to me, and I feel weird about not being able to do that, or not feeling entitled about doing it, if that’s the case… Less so….
“The fabled, ever-polite, well-informed London Bobby… is a rarer breed every year. They can probably answer your question about directions but not about the location of specific shops; they may well be rather offhand with you and less than magisterially courteous; they may be chewing gum. Even so, they won’t be carrying guns and you needn’t fear them, so walk right up and ask your question”
Though, two things:
a) … Uuuuuuuunless you look like a terrorist, or have a beard or something: in which case you’re fucked. I hope you had no deep connection to your digital camera etc.
b) This makes me, as usual, more concerned about where I am NOW than what might happen while travelling in the UK. Seriously, because every single police officer here in America does carry a gun I shouldn’t ever ask for directions because as sure is eggs is eggs, they WILL shoot me? Cripes.
And then, of course, there’s the utterly affectionate and wonderful glimpse of:
“…the law will also frustrate you. Everyone knows that Boots on Piccadilly is open throughout the night and on Sunday. But you may purchase only emergency items outside regular hours. While the toothpaste will stare up at you from under drapes, salivate all you will, you may not buy it; on the other hand, you may buy a prophylactic across the counter, for this is clearly an emergency. In any event, people would not be interesting if they were logical.”
On the one hand? That last statement is as true as any ever written.
On the other - Yes, alright. It’s safe to assume that to an out-of-hours shopper in Piccadilly Circus, fucking is a more pressing matter than dental hygiene. We may have famously bad teeth, but by golly we know how to have fun. Even on Sunday (sometimes).
And such is the advice.
I’ve been mining my collection (small, but growing), all weekend (while hanging out in parks eating cheese and slices of sliced salted cured pig, there’s no point in sounding like I’ve been reading-room-deep in earnest study for days on end) and marking pages with scraps of paper and typing things up, but also, I’ve been the collection found on the absolutely incredible (and publicly-tended) resource of Open Library - particularly their ability to subject search.
So over the next few weeks, in the preparation for coming home, I was going to type up some of the highlights from those (ranging, generally, from the mid 19th century to the early 1980s-ish) and then, when all that is done, I will undoubtedly know EVERYTHING that can be known about visiting my homeland at the end of the month.
Also if I happen to get on a plane that is a bit time-travelly.














