Journey to the little hillock with nice steps I read about once: a walk
An official SIISTUPH, as laid out here
I am two blocks away from home, turning the corner next to the chicken-wired playground full of middle schoolers on happy school break beating the crap out of each other, when I realise I have remembered the vague location of the particularly pretty staircase I am setting out to see, but forgotten the name of the street. Or the local history book I read it in.
I’m about to turn back and get it, but, seeing as it’s taken too long to get out of the house anyway, and there’s a woman sitting on a stool enjoying the sunshine and lazily watching me walk up the street toward her, and if I turn on my heels and head back the other way, she’ll think me very strange indeed. I will find it, I’m sure, I think, and carry on, turning right at the lady, then left up the next road, mainly to avoid the library I’ve been meaning to go and work in for weeks now.
I head up Douglass for a start. It’s a street that isn’t coloured in on my ‘where I have walked’ map of San Francisco’, not at this end, anyway and I manage to get a few blocks along it, passing a pet shop with a bored-looking parrot inside it, and a woman outside it fixing a ‘LOST’ poster to a lamp post. I’m crossing to the next block when I hear a squawk overhead and look up to see the unfamiliar silhouette of a bird. It looks like a parrot. Which wouldn’t be unheard of. But I can’t help but hope it’s the same parrot releasing itself from boredom behind the back of a remarkably prescient posterhanging lady.
Another block of Douglass that I have walked before, and then another that I haven’t, and I’m part of the way along another before I notice a dog the size of a horse standing in the back of a flatbed truck, waiting to pluck the head off my shoulders with his giant slathering teeth. Slathering? Teeth? Well, if any teeth can slather, these ones do, dripping with terror the texture of dribble. I wonder for a minute why I haven’t been tipped off sooner by a pile of headless corpses lying at the angry horse-dog’s feet, but write it off to some enslaved miniature cleaning crew hiding under the truck … as I take a sharp left and head up Alvarado to Hoffman, a street I’ve only ever crossed before and which turns out to be disappointing, coming to a sharp end in collision with the swoop of Grand View Terrace as it kneels down into a dip in the hillside to allow buses to climb up on its back.
Round the corner of Grandview, I’m almost led off down an Alley called Acme, narrow between tall buildings and dropping away toward downtown, with the transamerica pyramid framed right in the middle. A young woman and smaller boy are jumping down stairs near the bottom of the second stretch of alley. I make a note in my diary to do the same if I happen to come back this way.
Up to Market, and there debate whether I should press the button and risk inconveniencing drivers or just find another way around that might lead to more interesting adventures anyway, while taking pictures of another smaller staircase called Mono (but with more than one step, otherwise that’s just a curb) and weighing up the pros and cons. Eventually two men happen along, identically grey-bald and round-spectacled, identically clad in too-tight spandex speed-walking gear, identical in whining nasal pitch of conversation and everything, in fact, apart from the fact that one of them looks pale and drawn and as if he might die next week and the other stoic and pursed of lip and like he hasn’t slept properly in a year. They push the button and we all cross the road.
On Clayton, I’m tempted by a long, shabby-looking flight of stairs called Iron Alley, but too rule-abiding to completely ignore the STAIRS CLOSED NO EXIT sign painted in foot high letters near the bottom.
Up Clayton and over a road, where a beautifully tended communal neighbourhood garden squeezed onto a flatiron wedge of pavement is made rather less beautiful by enough netting to keep out whole herds rampaging pestilent vandal trout, and laminated signs politely but firmly requesting that people not enjoy the garden too tactilily, or at too close a quarter. On the walkway, two neat neighbourhood gardeners lean, one on the wall and one on a broom, no doubt on their designated shift to mind the communal garden and shoo along any malingering greenfingers. I shuffle around their pile of dead leaves and away.
Suddenly I am excited by the sight of the end of a staircase tucked behind a wall - like the sight of a toe sneakily poking from under a curtain - promising untold adventure (or in the case of the toe, a leg). Across the road, and onto a staircase garden, covered in trees and vines planted and upkept by the neighbourhood gardeners, and renovated recently in memory of another, I notice, leaning down to drink from the public fountain they’ve put there in her name. The dog fountain bubbles away happily at ankle level, distributing a wet trickle of cooling water to my walking shoe. The person-height one releases a small pop of air and a small weak pipe-burping sound. ‘Pem Bertonplacelady:’ I tributise in my head - ‘Keen gardener. Dog lover. Inveterate prankster.’
On the second block of Pemberton Place stairs, I pass an older gentleman coming down. We smile. I wonder how many times he’s walked these stairs. Not today, just generally. In his life. In the life of the steps. At the top of the next flight, a woman watches me from the window of her house. A house which sits to the side of some stairs that would seem to lead straight on from the Pemberton place ones but don’t, I presume, belong to the public in quite the same way. I sense if I don’t hang a right, she’ll pull out a gun. So I do, and she doesn’t.
I skim the corner of a road I’ve already walked, Tank Hill on my right, Twin Peaks boulevard off to my left, pass some people in their young twenties pruning trees with dreadlocks and colourful tattoos.
I don’t know, these hippy trees, eh?
The gardener folk seem quite cool too, so I put my head down and walk fast, in case they notice I am pink around the edges from exertion, unpierced and/or painted and with no definite career plan, and therefore far less cool than they are.
On Clarendon Way, on my left side, giant houses skirt along inside of the road, looking out from under lowered brow down on Haight Ashbury and the Panhandle. On my right side, perched on the edge of Down, are habitations that look like tiny wooden cabins … until you catch a glimpse straight through, and realise they’re modern palaces inside, all unassuming to the front door key, then dropping their big glass undercrackers to the world spread out beneath them.
Rounding the corner as Clarendon rounds the hill on the West side of the city, I suddenly realise I’m far closer to Sutro Tower than I originally realised. I am excited by this.
Sutro Tower is a monster antennae that stands on top of the tallest peaks in the middle of the city looking like a catching mitt for an alien craft or a three-pronged fondue fork for God himself. I’ve grown very fond of it, and you find pictures of it, dotted through my flickr stream, from every different angle, in every different light and at varying proximity. Suddenly, it’s rising above me, an all powerful, if slightly static, skeletal robot of doom.
For once I wish I had someone with me, so I phone my beloved, working in the office at home. “Sutro Tower is brilliant from up close” I say “I think we should call it: ‘THE CRAW!’ because it sounds more like an evil alien robot that way.”
He agrees to this, and I hang first up, then a right, because the rest of Clarendon Avenue is winding downhill in an unpromisingly dull way.
After a few steps, and passing two other solo walkers who exchange hellos and smiles and nods, I turn a corner and stop. And wait. And notice nothing at all. There is no real noise, not nearby. The wind ruffles treetops high above, and cars can be heard winding boringly down boring Clarendon Avenure some way off behind me, but here, there is nothing. Nothing but a row of identikit houses, painted inwhite and jaunty yellows, browns, oranges and blues. Neatly manicured hedges sit cut into lollipop branches, framing the side of each yard, where iron steps with open risers lead up to screen doors, latched and in front of frosted glass doors.
Forest Knolls, says a sign. I have never heard of Forest Knolls. I’ve read local history books and local guidebooks and books about local guidebooks and spent hours devouring maps of this city, and I don’t remember a single thing about Forest … what was it the sign said? Knolls. Like it doesn’t exist.
There are no people.
There is no wind.
There is no sign of people even having been here recently, apart from the perfectly trimmed and prim nature of it. I have a slight concern that I’ve died and been transported to Stepford, but a beep from my phone and a jaunty message telling me that someone isn’t in London isn’t enjoying whatever they’re watching on television informs me that no, I’m basically still alive. I’m not saying there wouldn’t be twitter in the afterlife - just that I shouldn’t think I’ll get reception there. Not on my network.
Reassured I’m not dead, I amble happily down the street, whistle a happy tune and plan the quickest way to get home, dress up in my finest vintage dress, get back here and set about pretending I’m a character in Mad Men just by standing around looking decorous.
I turn onto Warren Drive, and all of a sudden the Golden Gate Bridge pops up and waves at me from the other side of the park. I take a picture, since every time it creeps up on me like that I feel I should, for the sake of feeding my intrinsic not-from-hereness. It glows with pride and gratitude, with maybe a hint of coquettishness. I tip it a wink, and promise to take another picture next time I see it.
Walking on down Warren, sets of subsidised-looking apartments are set back from the street. A car backing out of one at 0.02mph nearly takes me out, in another three pigeons are staging some kind of public orgy on a balcony balustrade. I’m not saying that the street is a den of iniquity in an otherwise spotless part of town, but if that’s NOT the case, the joyriding reversing-nurse at no.446 and the pigeons outside no.490 might not have received the community newsletter.
A block onto Lawton, I get led off by 8th avenue, which seems to have rebranded itself Windsor Terrace, though only for a block or so. Rabid individualism, everyone building houses as unique and impressive as they desire and can afford in the space they have to work with makes walking the streets of the Sunset district more fun than I ever expected. You’ll be walking along any normal street with a ragbag collection of houses and then come across one with several turrets, clad in florescent crazy paving. With gargoyles.
Windsor Terrace may have more trees than some, but otherwise it fails me. I was hoping for at least some battlements. Perhaps a neo-romantic Tuscan-style villa (with gargoyles). I got hedged suburbia. Bah.
On to Morega, and along a few blocks, past a Lemon-and-lime tree, closed-down grocery stores, and the same UPS man 5 times. I tell you, they may say they’re fast? I appear to be faster. I looked back for him when I hit 13th, while taking a picture of the Golden Gate Bridge, who was glowing with a deep red sense of self-admiration at the end of a long avenue and a couple of parks.
Just after Funston (which is where 13th Avenue should be), some stairs came. but unremarkable ones, so not, I assumed, the ones I was looking for. I bounded up them, hoping to find the next. At 14th I found another brief flight of stairs, and bounded up them too, embarrassed when the only thing I found at the top was a doctor on, I assume, a post-work-walk. I tried my best to give off an air of healthfulness and rightful-living. I may have been here 18-months, but I’m still so scared of the health insurance system that I secretly apparently believe that if a doctor looks at you and can see you’re not feeling well, you might have to give him all the money you’ve got for telling you so.
I realise technically that would be called mugging, but that doesn’t convince me that it isn’t possibly true.
Up the stairs to Grand View Park - a Park with View so Grand that half way up the third, steepest flight of stairs I catch sight of the Inner Sunset laid out below me and have to hold tight to the railing to stay vertical.
At the top, I catch my breath, and keep catching it, as I look out over the ocean, down the coast to the bluffs before to Pacifica, across Golden Gate Park and The Richmond to the Marin Headlands, over to The Presidio, and then, turning round, to the rest of the city, or all of it that isn’t blocked out by the mountain I just came over - Pacific Heights, Russian Hill, Nob Hill, Haight Ashbury, Lower Haight, The Western Adddition and all of the bits down toward Downtown, North Beach and the bay. I catch my breath, and keep catching it. I try and take a picture of it all made of fifty pictures of it all. It will come out very much paler than the thing I am looking at, predictably.

The thing that is crazy is that the park I’m standing on - tiny, in footprint, but bloody tall, called Turtle Hill, apparently, locally - is a sand dune. It every time I look down at the city below, it’s the sand I glimpse on my shoe at the same time that blows my mind. That this, 200 years ago, is what almost everything I can see would have looked like. And here I am, 35 blocks from the ocean, standing on a sand dune oasis flooded by a sea of city.
It feels deeply weird.
I slowly make my way down a staircase on the other side of Turtle Hill. Not the pretty staircase I came on a walk to find mind you - when I get home I’ll discover that I’ve missed that one by mistake - which is nice, because it means I get to come and find it again another day, by a different route.
Instead I find a wooden staircase decorated, curiously, by a small pool of faded but recent blood faded underneath a mid-stairway bench. I follow it, trying to work out if the the bleeder went up the stairs or down, sustained the injuries at the scene or elsewhere entirely, and other such important questions, but halfway through doing so remember that watching a lot of crime procedurals is not the same thing as being a forensic detective, and head down the stairs.
Meaning to head down toward main roads and the shore, I get led off, and find myself intrigued and confused by a sudden rash of white picket fences, and homes behind them that are like tiny state capitols and governors mansions and plantation estates and god knows what else - the size of any normal three-bedroom detached house. And I wouldn’t be so intrigued by them if every one of them doesn’t have a tiny scale model of itself sitting just to the left of the front door, like an extra-large mailbox, or a super-super-boast. I try to to take a picture, going slowly up the walk. But there’s a lady going into one of the houses, and I’m scared she might get cross.
Curling up the road, knowing there is a bus I can get somewhere near by that will take me to a place I can transfer to a bus home, I pat my pocket and check for the transfer fare, which I have. This is good. It means I know I may get tired and hungry at some point and need to go home, and am sensibly going preparing for that.
Sadly at this point, as ever, I get lost.
Or rather, I happen upon a particularly attractive staircase and go down it, to avoid a labrador coming the the other way. Then find myself going up a completely different one, to avoid a particularly angry looking chihuahua.
I skirt a whole new and different park I didn’t know existed and, rounding a corner, down a stairway called Oriole, where I find a thing that makes my heart explode with joy for the fortuitousness of it:

And then along another street and, finding the self same street I know my bus line home is named for, I am glad. See, buses are called things like 47-Van Ness, because they may go down other streets, but they go down Van Ness the longest, and the 24-Divisidero or the 48-Quintara do the same. Sadly, by the time I turn onto Quintara, it has about fifteen yards of dead end road left to go. The bus either turns of before this, or this is some kind of Harry Potter situation I have simply not prepared for.
Down through the other streets I don’t recognise the names of - pulling my little moleskine san francisco notebook out of my bag, I turn it round and round to get my bearings, and come to grips with nothing much more enlightening than the fact that somewhere around here, two otherwise strictly north-south avenues meet. I hadn’t realised that they did that round these parts - I thought it was a much more vanilla system in the Avenues, all bisecting verticals and horizontals and no question of same-avenue relations. Still, there they are, 9th and 12th, together, and openly so. I’m really pleased for them, of course: I just worry about the people around them. The ones who try and call their local takeaway and request delivery at the meeting point of two apparently parallel streets It’s hard for them, you know? They need pizza.
By this point, however, so do I.
I can see the fog rolling in. It starts with a vague haze over the sun, then a more general darkness over the Sunset district (it is, I should mention to my dear reader in the motherland, one of the districts in San Francisco where the sunset is most often completely hidden by fog) I’m getting cold. I’m standing in the middle of what looks like the poshest neighbourhood I’ve ever seen, and yet it’s entirely inhabited, as far as I can see, by Mexican-American 40-year-old men with flatbed trucks and paunches and a passion for DIY. Or I do until they all start getting in the trucks and leaving.
And then I realise. It’s a neighbourhood so posh that no one who lives here during the day is visible during the day, and no one visible during the day is visible at night. They’re all off at golf or lunch or tennis or the spa or botox. I’ll probably never see them. Which is good, because they’d probably wonder how I got onto their estate. And why I look a bit tired.
I find a street I think I recognise, and then a street I realised I definitely do because I KNOW, yes, finally, that my bus comes down this street.
Of course this is the killer point. The point that anyone would know tow watch out for if they were with me, but they aren’t. It’s the ‘I might as well just…’ point. Since I’m at the bottom of this road but have never walked up it (only caught the bus), I might as well, because then I can colour it in on my map. And besides, I know there’s a garage at the junction up there and I can spend my bus fare on a bottle of pop.
And once I’ve walked from there toward the most direct route home why then … I might as well veer off to the right and take in a few new roads and a couple of new staircases, because what’s the point of going down the same road home, even if it does happen to be my road?
You’re beginning to see why no one will walk with me, I imagine. And why I won’t write guided walks.
Three extra stupid-gradients later, two up, one down, and one last staircase, I get home, and reconsider the statement I made earlier about not needing much for lunch.
And then I eat the cat.
I’m kidding.
I only eat the sofa - I let the cat get off it first.
Those are the pictures, and the map. If you click on the full pictures on the flickr set you can seen captions and explanations and such.










