I had a really happy food moment last week.
We’d been doing the thing you do when someone comes to stay and you really want to show them things but it’s raining - wandering around, leaping from shop doorway to covered walkway to mode of transport. And attempting to make the best of the piss wet weather by pointing at things and saying “See That? No? Oh. Well, that’s REALLY pretty view when it’s not raining. Honest. No, it really is.”
And then we ended up going for lunch at The Cliff House. Because while walking on a beach in a thick cloud, your shoes filling with wet sand is fun … watching other fools do it from a large picture window a hundred feet above while eating lunch is always better.
It’s not the cheapest place in the world. It doesn’t have the best menu. Midweek it’s filled with Ladies who lunch and meetings of the ‘retired self important men who talk too loudly’ society - as well as bedraggled new incomers trying to show their very most loved a good time. But - and it’s a big but - there’s ONE THING that will mean I will be going back to that place every time I feel a bit sad and homesick (it isn’t often, but when it is, it’s more for food than anything)(sorry to my lovely friends and family, but, you know, if you WILL keep coming to visit, how am I ever going to find time to miss you?)
We walked in and sat down.
The waiter, who was singularly terrifying and apparently on castors, glided up to the table when we weren’t looking. When I turned around, having drunk in the beauty of the several miles of view, there was an enormous face inches from mine.
“GOOD AFFFFERNOON?!” the face bellowed, deep from under a moustache somewhere. “IS RAINING”
“Um. yus?” I wasn’t sure how much more clarification was necessary, above and beyond looking like I’d recently been standing in a wind tunnel while an ocean was poured through a sieve on top of me. Because I did. Because I had.
“YES! LOOK IS RAININ!” He said, pointing out of the magnificent window.
“Yis.” I agreed, meekly.
“YES!!!! DRINKS?! that moustache nowhere-near muffled, as a hand floated up and indicated a menu we had been too busy looking at the beach to read.
There were general mumblings of coffee all around, in a quiet British way.
“WHA?!”
“We’re ALL gonna have CAFFEE, please!” I translated, with my almost-six-months of knowing how restaurants in my new home work. For what it is worth, mumbling and bashfulness never, ever work.
- On a side note, also asking for water also never works, in a great majority of places.
Asking for waahder? Yes. that works fine, because US restaurants are lovely and eager to please and want to provide whatever the customer needs. But, because of accents being different (not wrong, mind, just different), they just don’t expect a ‘t’ in the middle of ‘water’.
“Can I just get a glass of water?”
“Orange juice?” someone perky will say, helpfully. Honestly, this is the most frequent understanding.
“No no. Water?” Sometimes I mime water at this point, because I’m an idiot.
“Iced Tea?”
“Water?”
“Root beer?”
I tell you what, forget that. Can I just getta glassa waahder instead?”
“Sure! Be right withya!”
It is one of the only times I will knowledgably and willingly give up my accent. Because god knows it’s hard to get a glass of water without doing so sometimes. -
Anyway. The waiter rolled away again, soundlessly. In his moustache.
He wasn’t the reason I want to go back to the bistro. I should come back to that.
(I’m just enjoying writing because it’s my day off, sorry)
He arrived with the coffees. They tasted like brown water. They weren’t the reason I’m going to be going back whenever I’m homesick either. Just as I was critiquing the strength of the coffee, I turned to look at the restaurant and discovered a large moustachioed face inches from mine, asking if we were ready to order. No one was able to tell where he’d approached from. We ordered. “YES!!! ESSELENT!” came a bellow from whoever was under that lipwig. Again, not the reason I’m going back.
The reason I’m going back EVERY DAMNED TIME I miss particular British food that I can’t cook because my oven’s doesn’t get bloody hot enough.
Three minutes after the coffees arrived, a bus boy arrived with a large basket of Yorkshire puddings, and some butter.
That’s not a large basket of Yorkshire puddings of course. That’s a large basket with a yorkshire and a half left because we were so excited and bemused and - well, aroused is the wrong word, but you know what I mean, right? Doesn’t everyone get slightly over-excited by Yorkshires? - that we’d eaten most of them by the time we thought to take a photo.
They were basically a very plain batter, from what I could taste - baked in a very hot oven; light and fluffy, crispy on the outside, battery on the inside - what the butter was for I have no idea.
“What did you order?” We asked each other.
No one, it transpired, had ordered roast beef.
Gravy didn’t appear to be forthcoming.
They’d just brought Yorkshire puddings. I was in heaven.
You have to understand, I would go for a roast meal, and take less than a nibble of any other component, as long as I could have the Yorkshires. If in need of comfort, I will order anything with Yorkshire puddings and leave everything else on the plate.
Unless it’s good sausages, because that would just be a dreadful dreadful waste. Anyway.
My darling mother refused to believe we’d simply found the North American repository of awesome Yorkshires.
“I’m going to ask the waiter what these are called” she declared.
“No!” I said. They were clearly Yorkshire puddings.
“No, I am. You’ve complained about the lack of them, these are slightly different, I’m going to ask what they …”
“No DON’T!” I begged. For some reason I just wanted them to be Yorkshire puddings.
“Excuse me!” said my wonderful little mother, suddenly perfectly loud enough to be heard by the gliding moustache… “What do you call these?”
“POPOVERS!” he said.
“Oh! Thank you” she said, Britishly. “They’re popovers.”
“They’re bloody Yorkshire Puddings” I said.
“They’re clearly bloody Yorkshires.” I grumped “They’re Yorkshire puddings, look, they just are.”
“I think popovers are something else. I think he meant these are Yorkshires.” I said, in denial, “Can I have yours?”
So: ex-pats of San Francisco - go to the Cliff House - order the cheapest thing you can (most of it isn’t very good.) Then sit and wait for your enormous basket of Yorkshire puddings. Finish them as fast as you can - perhaps put some in your handbag for later (I totally didn’t do that)(No, really, I didn’t: too wet, for a start); and if you’re brave enough, ask for another basket.
And some gravy.
It’s all they’re missing.
Top San Francisco tip for the day, there.
Oh Balldanglings, now I’m hungry…





