Like I said, I had a stupidly busy (good-busy) work weekend - but when I got over that, and the subsequent bastard-flucold it brought me that laid me out for the last week (sorry) - I found some notes that I’d written after we got back to the hotel room that night, after dinner (yeah, I know: “how romantic!” but evenings are a big part of our working days due to the time difference….) so here they are: they’re the bits in boxes. My joinings together are inbetween.
We’d been driving for a few hours when the Madonna Inn, palace of kitsch that I’d been wanting to stay in since the first time I heard about it, a long time ago, suddenly honed into view. I want to make it sound like it rose up, tasteful and looking like a haven of rest in a world of chaos.
But it didn’t. It rose up shortly after a sign promising the world’s best split pea soup in 89 miles time, and stood out like a sore thumb: large pink letters and forest of turrets with rocky outcrops sticking out at unlikely angles. I bounced in my seat because I was just so excited.
Also because I needed a wee.
Because we’d been driving for four hours already. Sorry that’s probably too much information. Whatever: my blog.
So we turned off the freeway, tingling with readiness to arrive at the place right there, right next to the exit.
And after we’d taken three wrong turnings and enjoyed a scenic tour of San Luis Obispo (and damn, that’s one of the most scenic little towns I’ve seen in California so far, even if it DOES have one of the most disgusting local attractions I think I’ve ever seen) we finally arrived.
“Hel-lo! I’m Leah! I’ll be booking you in today, does everything seem to be to your satisfaction so far?”
“Yes, I just walked through the door. Just there. There’s no line, I just walked up here”
“Awesome!”
(Is what I wish I could have said in that situation. I just said “Yesthankyou” instead.
But it is tempting. Because people in service positions in general? They have a habit of checking whether you’ve found the things you’re clearly showing them you’ve found.
If you went into a shop that sold only one object, and you walked up to that object, which was, say, prominently displayed on a single plinth in the middle of the room. If you picked it up, carried it over to the till and placed it there - and they watched you during that WHOLE process: the sales assistant would still say “Hi! Did you find everything ok today?”)
And then we booked into our room, which was super-exciting in itself: and then realised, on the walk up to our room, that a lot of the other themed rooms weren’t taken for the night and, what was more, had their curtains open, along the walkway, with all their rock-cascaded wares on show to the world. Yay to that.
Eventually we got to our room, and opened the door. Merely opening the door, please note, looked like this:
So you can only imagine what the rest looked like.
though to behonestly, mainly you’re going to have to imagine it because every time I tried to take a picture of it my camera threw up.
It’s funny, the rest of the time I have my camera’s colour settings set to ‘vivid’ because that’s how I see the world, and how I want it recorded. This was the one location I have ever been to that defeated the Vivid setting on my camera (and the vivid setting on my brain).
I will say, however: the room we stayed in: Floral Fantasy (which was, as you may have guessed, not terribly manly) was a bunch more tasteful than you might have expected. And, in fact, a bunch more tasteful than their pictures might have suggested.
Certainly, I’m not saying it wasn’t LOUD.
Because it was. It was loud.
It was just quite pleasantly loud, really, while you were in it. if you’re ok with loud. But I liked it. Apart from the pink snakeskin sofa that I possibly could have done without. Anyway. We’d booked into the steakhouse for dinner after a concentrated hour or so of work - so we went in our nicest packed clothes to dinner.
We greeted there by a greeter, a perky young lady who informed us that as we were five minutes early for our table, it wasn’t quite ready yet, but the gift shop was open if we wanted to go there instead? Or, yes, she supposed, the bar was also open as well as the gift shop, but they had an extra special sale on personalised gifts, so … oh all right, the bar’s just round there, yes, your table will be ready in just a few minutes.
A few minutes later - a few minutes spent in the chilly company of a very grumpy barman who was, we decided (in hoarse whispers) actually Walt Disney who had been cryogenically-defrosted and told that the Disney corporation had run out of other cultures’ society-shaping fairy tales and children’s books to stick in the company mangler, and he was going to have to tend bar mid-week at the Madonna Inn to pay the freezer bills instead.
When we returned to the maitre d’ station less than ten minutes later, there had already been a shift-change in the perky-lady department.
“Hi! I’m Jenna! I’ll be your greeter today! Your server will be Jordan! Stephen will show you to the table in just a second”
just a second passes … not even in fact, until
“HI! I’m Stephen, Jordan will be your server today, but let me show you to your table. Here is your table! Mike will be along shortly with some icewadder”
Shortly …
“Hey, folks! I’m Mike. I’ll be assisting your server today, his name is Jordan! Would you like icewadder? Great! Jordan will be assisting you as soon as he is able”
About a minute later, as young man came striding up to the table, purposefully
“Hi I’m …”
“Hi! You must be Jordan, we’ve heard a lot about you.
“..Yes. Jordan”
“Can we get a wine list now?”
“He…?”
Awesome. Thanks, Jordan”
It was a remarkable restaurant. In terms of the decor as much as anything else. A doll in a pouffy dress swings on a child’s swing, attached to the ceiling. Giant pink roses grow from a giant pink rose tree sprouting up in the centre of the room, and spreading its giant glittering boughs over the pink, circular padded booths, mountains of silk flowers and small golden statues.
That’s my beloved and a cherub. I tried to get pictures of more of the room but they just came out like a magic eye picture designed by a focus group of seven-year-old girls.
“Can we share an order of the buffalo wings to start?”
“Ooooooo - kaaaaaaaaaaay but lemmee just warn you guys, they’re kinda haht”
“That’s fine”
“Oooo- kaaaay, but, like, they’re rilly quite haht.”
“Honestly: we’re not normal British people: we know your hot.”
It’s funny, and I’ll go into this another time, I am in no way slighting American food. Nor the British ability to handle Hot. I am British, for example; very, in fact - and I’m a BIG hot-things fan.
But, coming here, there are two very clear interpretations of hot. There’s my preferred one, the British one involving lots of strong curry spices and other mixed empire/smuggling/immigration-inspired spices that get used in British cooking; and the north American one that is less far less complex in flavour (and, they would say, smelly) but has more gradients of ‘HOT’, based on the type and the number of chilli peppers added.
So it’s not that American people and British people can’t get along; it’s just that when you first arrive in America - when I first got here, certainly - you might not understand that ‘HOT’ is a different kind of flavour (or more of a physical sensation than a flavour at all). Oh, we’ll talk about it another time. They just weren’t that hot, that’s all.
Lots of minutes and some wine and food and things pass… “Can I get you anything else?”
“Well, Um. It isn’t our anniversary, or anywhere near it; but everyone else has balloons. And I really like balloons. Do you have any spare bloons?”
I say, before scuttling off to the toilet embarrassed at being a grown-up who finds her spirit bizarrely lifted by having a helium balloon tied around her wrist.
When I come back from the toilet, there are five balloons floating above the table.
“Mike came bearing the promised extra balloon, and wishing us a happy anniversary. I told him that actually, you just really like balloons. So he brought over all the balloons other people had left behind as well.”
Jordan came back, hoping to leave, being the greatest server that ever was just long enough to collect plates, thanks, accolades, and tip.
“Is everything to your satisfaction?”
“Yes.” we say “Everything is brilliant. And We Like Mike.”
And I do like Mike.
I like Mike, and I like it when I ask for a steak rare and it’s not only cooked that way, but a good enough steak to make that worth it (although everything else served around it felt like an afterthought and was horrendously overpriced, but that’s by the by).
I like eating somewhere - staying somewhere - that has clearly prided itself on not having a single inch, stretch, plank, nook, cornice or trivet unattended to.
Yes, it might not be to everyone’s taste; to many people’s taste, perhaps, who pride themselves on having taste - but the glorious thing about the Madonna Inn is just what a labour of love it is. And if not a labour of love then a pure, bloody-minded slog to be the biggest, shiniest, gaudiest bauble in the western world, or the world out west. And all power to them.
I loved it like I love all enthusiasts, and fanatics and over-excitable hobbyists and things.
Doing something to the n degree of crikey just because you love it so: I am your biggest fan. Madonna Inn was just like that for me.
Also, they enabled a morning of work/packing while talking in comedy squeaky helium voices (well, we couldn’t take the balloons in the car for the next 300 miles). It’s all win, all the way.