The Old Town, Any Evening of the festival.
Saturdays Worst
Performed by a cast of thousands, The Streets near t’Castle
Edinburgh is a high city.
In terms of contour lines rather than little white lines, I mean.
Although that too, to be sure.
But it’s high. High up, on lots of hills.
Too high, I would have thought, for flooding.
But, as I walked away from dinner - fast (incidentally, should anyone wish to know where to get the worst nachos in Edinburgh, just ask, I know) - as I walked away from dinner in the early evening, I started to notice a running, a rising on the streets.
At first I was only conscious of the tapping of sticks and a faint smell of boiled sweets.
But then, from seemingly nowhere, the ground was suddenly bubbling, a soft covering, rising from around corners, up stairwells (slowly), through doorways, babbling, an unstoppable torrent, a swirling mass of grey hair, jackets protecting from nippy summer breezes and sensible, sensible shoes.
Old people.
A deluge.
And all of them, pouring off tour buses, bound to see the Edinburgh Military Tattoo.
So, I hear you ask, “What is the Edinburgh Military Tattoo, Anna?”
Well, dear reader, it’s an inked impression on the upper or lower arm, depicting an anchor and the word ‘mammy’.
No, hang on, that’s the Edinburgh Naval Tattoo.
I’m sorry.
The Edinburgh Tattoo is a collection of men in skirts kilts, torturing cats playing bagpipes and shooting blanks performing military salutes.
This is military presented as cabaret, cuddly plaything armies.
But why the flood?
And why the restricted age range?
Is there a guidance sticker on the poster that says;
GP; only for those aged 80 or over, or otherwise grandparents?
Is it specific to the current generation? Will the spectacle of the Tattoo die away with those who remember Armies fondly, to whom war is a ‘real thing’?
Or is the need for bagpipes and men who specialise in walking in rhythm something we all grow into eventually?
Will we all like the Tattoo one day?
Do we have to? Is it compulsory?